What the F*ck is Fashion?
Okay bare with me on this one. I’m more than aware the title seems a bit concerning (especially considering I’ve devoted a decent chunk of my life studying it and currently pursuing a major around it), but I’ve some interesting points to make. Some may feel redundant or blatantly obvious while others open new boxes for discussion.
Coming from North Jersey and regularly visiting NYC I’ve seen my fair share of trends or lack thereof. The styles that circulated throughout my high school, neighboring towns and community pretty much fit into a select number of categories. There were the athletes (typically found in leggings or shorts with oversized shirts), the minimalists (solid colors, jeans, sweaters etc... ), ‘country club core’ (anything Polo, Vineyard Vines, Khakis and Sperrys combo), a decent amount of fast fashion trends and occasional business casual. Now I’m aware that covers a lot. I’m sure you could break those down even further or explore the more niche categories (goth, thrifted, Y2K, etc... ). Then you go to NYC and you seem to find yourself in a whole new kingdom of fashion. Sure you still have the athletes, plenty of business casual and fast fashion trends - but it’s the street, own label, vintage, one of a kind finds that spice up the mix.
It doesn’t even stop there ya know - cause there's this whole world outside of NYC (hard to believe) that breaks their own ‘fashion rules’ (navy and black, groufits, skirts as shorts, dresses and jeans, the list goes on). I’m no expert myself so all wisdom (?) written here is self proclaimed.
It wasn’t till I moved to London that I really noticed the drastic shift in micro and macro trends, day to night outfits and overall difference in style. I noticed people on the street were more ‘put together’. Even those less interested in fashion seem to have their hair brushed and a somewhat clean look going on. (I’m not not saying that we don’t have that in the US, it’s just a bit more rare). The craziest bit for myself was seeing how drastic looks changed as I spent time in different post codes. Finding yourself in Shoreditch you'll be surrounded by mom jeans, quilted jackets, beanies - a somewhat modern hipster, whereas Chelsea is filled with diamonds, fur coats and blazers and the occasional fedora. You could argue it's the wealth distribution but let me tell you Shoreditch’s gentrification/rent increase doesn’t really make it much cheaper. And its drastic. I mean I literally walk down Bricklane finding myself surrounded by Y2K, and street fashion but if I turn towards Liverpool street I'm surrounded by suits and dresses and if walking towards Hackney you’ll be right back in “Shoreditch core”.
This phenomenon has really messed with my head. To be fair, the sheer marketing of trends (companies creating trends at an unsustainable rate but somehow making them seem necessary) has messed with my head. At this point I’m not entirely sure what my style is. And that’s why I ask “What the Fuck is Fashion”.
Wikipedia - Fashion is a form of self-expression and autonomy at a particular period and place and in a specific context, of clothing, footwear, lifestyle, accessories, makeup, hairstyle, and body posture.
Merrriam Webster - Definition of fashion
The prevailing style (as in dress) during a particular time
A garment in such a style
A prevailing custom, usage or style
Social standing or prominence especially as signalized by dress or conduct
Personally my own interpretation resonates more with Wikipedias in that fashion is a form of ‘self expression’. But there's a few holes in there. What if you don’t care? What if you just wear purely out of function. You wear exactly what you need whether it’s a required uniform for work or your own made up uniform (1 pair of trousers and 1 shirt each day). Or on the other end of the spectrum, what if you really care? You care so much what you look like and how others perceive you that you meticulously follow trends and never miss a beat (think influencers). Are either of those really ‘fashionable’? In one case you wear what you need to - not necessarily expressing anything about yourself (or are you?) and the other instance showcases a scenario where you wear exactly what companies want you to wear.
I find myself struggling to find my own style and keep it consistent and I wonder if anyone else feels the same (or even cares to feel the same). I know what I’m comfortable in and what makes me feel good about myself, but it isn’t always what my friends or day to day acquaintances would necessarily wear or even find flattering. I find myself constantly between more mature clothing, young styles, classic pieces and even some funky finds. I tend to stick away from fitting clothes (half because of bloating) but also because I feel more confident in baggier clothing. I also know that I can feel like I’m really fitting in while wearing an outfit in Shoreditch and then feel way out of place in Westminster, Clapham or Brixton. Or even more extreme, I wear completely different outfits in Jersey as I do in London. Another issue is the day to day confusion of sometimes feeling SO great and put together in an outfit and the next wondering why the hell you ever left the house like that.
You can question what real style is in a million and five different angles. Is style built off simple timeless pieces? Can a super trend withhold time and be worn continuously? If you wear an outdated item, are you stuck in the past or ahead of your time with it’s possible resurgence? Is anything truly unflattering or are we just sexualising the body and determining how clothing should be worn? The list goes on and on.
I guess the main umbrella of questions is really - what is considered fashionable? (hence, what the fuck is fashion?). What deems you (the wearer) fashionable and is one meant to uphold their fashionability each hour of the day? Or is it just temporary/occasional?
I turned to my trusty friend Google to seek out any form of help and to no surprise a wonderfully written article by my favorite fashion guru out there, Leandra Medine Cohen, came up first. Her publication featured in Repeller (formally Man Repeller) discusses the question, “What is the point of fashion?”
Her own answer:
I have always metabolized fashion as my own form of escapism — a temporary tattoo that lets me speak with wild conviction but then take it back whenever I want. Fashion is so much more than just clothing for the people who feel they can let it in; it can become the greatest sum of her parts, a megaphone for articulation where words simply will not work.
- Leandra Medine Cohen 2017
Medine’s outlook on fashion has always been and will always be 100% about her. I can confidently say she's the only influencer I follow that is authentic to their personality. She's goofy, flawed, and most importantly dresses for herself. Her sense of not giving a care of what trends hit or what people might think is something I envy. As you’ll see below…quite literally the queen of mirror selfies.
On the other end of the spectrum, Carolyn from iChic points the old ‘male gaze’ theory towards what’s considered stylish or fashionable in “What Makes a Person Look Stylish and How can You Achieve it?”
They understand how to show off their assets, whilst drawing attention away from their flaws.
Stylish people know who they are and what looks and feels good on them – They wear colours and styles that flatter their physical appearance and reflect their personality.
These two points in particular fit most into the square society melds around fashion. My own bias prefers Medine’s outlook, but I do understand where Carolyn comes from. Why not embrace your flaws? And what if you just don’t have a conventionally attractive figure? Are you still supposed to highlight the same regions? (if not what regions do you highlight?).
I mean come on… how great is she??
I’m slowly deterring from the topic and not much has been discovered here, but I’m more interested in raising the questions and opening up a discussion. One day when I’m nearing my eighties and wearing the same glasses as Iris Apfel, I’ll have more insight and possibly a clear answer but until then I’ll keep wondering.
